How To Bezel Set A Faceted Stone

Bench Tip #seven: A Modified Tool to Bezel-Set up Circular Faceted Stones

Bezel-prepare round faceted stones

This is a follow-up to Demote Tip #6, "Using a Dissever Mandrel for Finishing Fabricated Round Bezels," which showed you how to modify a standard split mandrel to brand an constructive holding device to finish several fabricated bezels of the same dimensions. The same split mandrel tin can also be adjusted into an efficient tool for setting multiple round faceted stones into those bezels.

Secure the modified split mandrel in a band clamp. Insert a three.5 mm ball bur into the No. 30 hand piece of a flex shaft and burr a hollow into the height center of the mandrel, cutting to a depth of about 2.0 mm. Follow with a 2.5 mm brawl bur, centering and burring to a total depth of around three.0 mm. You volition create a void that provides clearance for the pavilion and culet of each stone to be set.

Use two ball burs to create a clearance for the pavilion during setting

Further modification of the carve up mandrel for setting is required. Using two ball burs, create a clearance for the pavilion during setting.

The total depth of the bezel must be at least 4.0 mm to accommodate the depth of the stone when gear up. Choose a finished bezel and position it on the mandrel. Secure the mandrel in a ring clamp. Measure the rock to be fix and select the proper size setting bur. You volition exist cut the depth of the bearing so that the top of the bezel flange is no less than 50 percentage of the crown height. Cut the bearing and check the fit of the stone to make sure information technology is level and at the correct depth for setting.

The depth of the bearing should be 50 percent or more, depending on the cut and proportions of the stone

The depth of the bearing should be 50 percent or more than, depending on the cutting and proportions of the stone.

Remove the mandrel and bezel from the ring clamp and tighten it in the manus slice on your flexible shaft. While spinning the hand piece, use a file to bevel and reduce the thickness of the bezel flange. Clean any debris from the bezel and place a pocket-sized corporeality of wax in the begetting to help hold the rock during the setting procedure. Pack and level the stone.

The bezel contact should be no less than x percent of the crown altitude, which is the dimension along the surface of the crown from girdle (0%) to table (100%). Rotate the hand slice as you use a burnisher to employ pressure to the beveled edge of the flange, pushing the metal over the rock. Await closely to make sure there is complete 360 degree contact against the crown.

The amount of metal burnished over the crown should be 10 percent or more of the crown distance.

The amount of metallic burnished over the crown should be 10 percent or more of the crown distance.

The completed bezels are ready to get a part of your fine jewelry creations. If the stones you apply can take heat, the bezels can exist soldered into jewelry by the traditional torch method. If they are vulnerable to heat, use a laser welder to set up the bezels in place.